Hakone in a Day

As the map shows, you climb from Hakone-Yumoto on the mountain railway, cross the ridge to Lake Ashi by cable car and ropeway, sail across the lake, and ride a bus back down to Yumoto. Three reasons for going anticlockwise:

• The mountains in the morning — the uphill links get busy from around midday. Reaching Owakudani early makes waiting times more predictable
• A hot spring to finish — after a day on your feet, you soak right next to the station your train home leaves from
• A forgiving last leg — if the final bus hits traffic, the hot-spring time absorbs the delay

The six stops, in map order:

Romancecar times are examples from the September 2026 weekend and holiday timetable (08:00 from Shinjuku, 18:45 from Hakone-Yumoto). The railway, cable car, ropeway, pirate ship and buses run frequently, so if you fall behind, simply take the next one. At busy times you may queue, so treat the hot-spring slot as your buffer. For a longer soak, the 19:52 train home is another option.

Prices as published in September 2026. The Freepass is sold at Odakyu ticket offices and machines, and as a digital ticket on your phone. Some venues give a discount if you show it.

Hakone-Yumoto, where the Romancecar terminates, is the gateway to Hakone. Change here to the red Hakone Tozan Railway. In the morning there is no need to leave the gates: head straight for its platform.

• Bridges over the gorge — between Tonosawa and Ohiradai the train crosses a deep valley, with the Hayakawa gorge straight below the windows
• Switchbacks — the driver and conductor swap ends and the train sets off the other way: a small ritual each time
• Seasonal flowers — from late June into July hydrangeas bloom along the line, earning it the nickname “hydrangea train”

Right by Chokoku-no-Mori Station, sculptures from Japan and around the world are spread across wide lawns in the hills, with a Picasso Pavilion indoors. Open 9:00–17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing.

• Symphonic Sculpture — a tower lined with stained glass. Climb the spiral staircase as coloured light fills the walls
• Woods of Net — a hand-knitted net structure children can climb inside, housed in a striking timber dome
• Foot bath — a hot-spring foot bath in the grounds, just right after a morning on your feet

Ninety minutes covers the highlights; allow two hours to see the Picasso Pavilion properly, and make it up later, for example by having lunch at Owakudani instead.

One stop on from the museum is Gora, the end of the railway. Restaurants cluster around the station, so have lunch here, then take the cable car to Sounzan and change to the ropeway for Owakudani.

• The view from the ropeway — soon after leaving Sounzan the steaming valley opens up below; on clear days Mount Fuji is straight ahead
• Black eggs — boiled in a hot spring pool, iron in the water coats the shell and reacts with hydrogen sulphide to turn it black. Eating one is said to add seven years to your life (four for ¥500)
• Viewpoint — the plaza by the station looks over the steaming valley and, on a good day, Mount Fuji

Owakudani emits volcanic gas, and visitors with asthma, bronchial or heart conditions are advised to take care. The Owakudani nature trail, which goes closer to the vents, now runs as reserved guided walks: four a day, about 40 minutes each (¥800 contribution).

The ropeway descends from Owakudani to Togendai at the north end of Lake Ashi. From here the Hakone pirate ship carries you south across the lake.

• Duration — about 25–40 minutes from Togendai to Motohakone; some sailings call at Hakone-machi first
• Look out for — as you near Motohakone, the vermilion Torii of Peace appears on the shore: your next stop, Hakone Shrine
• Seats — there is a special cabin for an extra fee, but the deck is all you need for the view

About ten minutes' walk along the lake from Motohakone Port, up an approach lined with towering cedars, stands Hakone Shrine, said to date from the Nara period (8th century).

• The cedar avenue — the tall trees either side of the steps switch you from lakeside bustle to quiet in a few paces
• The Torii of Peace — there can be a queue to be photographed under it. If it is busy, try framing the torii and lake together from the shore a little way off
• Kuzuryu Shrine (Shingu) — within the grounds, a shrine to Kuzuryu, a deity known for bringing people together

The amulet office and shrine stamps are available 8:15–17:00.

From Motohakone Port a bus takes you back down to Hakone-Yumoto along National Route 1, through hot-spring towns such as Miyanoshita.

• Kappa Tengoku — about 3 minutes from the station, a small bath with open-air pools that suits a short visit. Open until 21:00 on weekends and holidays
• Hakone Yuryo — a large bathhouse in the woods. Until 21:00 on weekends and holidays (last entry 20:00); adults ¥2,000 at weekends
• The shopping street — if you skip the bath, browse souvenirs and snacks: fish cakes, steamed buns and dried fish are classics

Bring your own towel to save a little. Book your return Romancecar together with the outbound one so the evening is not a rush.

• Check operations that morning — the ropeway and pirate ships can stop for strong wind, bad weather or volcanic gas. Check the official Hakone Navi site in the morning and use replacement buses for any closed section
• Leave slack in busy seasons — in the November foliage season and long holidays, queues form at the ropeway and the ships, and evening buses get stuck in traffic. Plan on taking a later train home
• Weekdays are easier — times shift a little, but the route is the same and the queues far shorter
• Clothing — Owakudani (about 1,000 m up) and the lake are cooler and windier than Yumoto. Bring a layer
• Luggage — with so many changes, leave large bags in coin lockers at Shinjuku or Hakone-Yumoto
• Starting later — if you leave around 9:00, drop either the museum or the hot spring and the same loop still works